an official journal of: published by:
an official journal of: published by:
Editor in Chief: RAFFAELLO COSSU

END OF USE TEXTILES: GIFTING AND GIVING IN RELATION TO SOCIETAL AND SITUATIONAL FACTORS

  • Sarah-Aby Diop - Centre for Environmental Science, Faculty of Engineering & the Environment, University of Southampton, United Kingdom
  • Peter J. Shaw - Centre for Environmental Science, Faculty of Engineering & the Environment, University of Southampton, United Kingdom

Released under CC BY-NC-ND

Copyright: © Cisa Publisher


Abstract

The clothing and fashion industry is associated with the seeking of new trends to meet and influence consumer demands. In consequence, the rates at which clothing and other textiles are purchased are high, as are the associated rates at which end-of-use items arise. Ensuring that methods and systems are in place to permit and encourage items deemed to be end-of-use by one person to be utilised to their full potential by other(s) is clearly desirable. This study aimed to elucidate how societal and situational factors influence the purchasing of clothing and other textiles, how decisions are made regarding end-of-use of these items, and the routes and means by which end-of-use textiles are subsequently passed on or disposed of. A comparison was therefore made of the public in Southampton (UK; relatively high income and established waste management systems) and Dakar (Senegal; relatively low income and with largely informal waste management systems) in which societal and situational factors contrast. Comparison of these two case studies was thus expected to provide insight as to the influence(s) of society and situation upon the generation and fate of end-of-use textiles. Through a questionnaire survey, the study found that factors leading to purchasing, decisions regarding end-of-use of items and post-use destinations differed markedly between these two contrasting cities. However, reuse of end-of-use clothing and textiles was common in both cities, which is desirable in reference to the aims and principles of the waste hierarchy. High levels of reuse occur despite the common belief that more developed and established systems provide better opportunities for effective waste and resource management.

Keywords


Editorial History

  • Received: 16 Jan 2018
  • Revised: 05 Mar 2018
  • Accepted: 20 Mar 2018
  • Available online: 31 Mar 2018

References

ANSD (Agence Nationale de la Statistique et de la Démographie) (2006). Résultats du troisième recensement général de la population et de l’habitat – (2002). Available at: http://siteresources.worldbank.org/INTSENEGALINFRENCH/Resources/461584-1175072268436/TROISIEMERECENSEMENTPOPULATIONETHABITATSENEGAL.pdf [Accessed 30th August 2016].

ANSD (2013). Rapports du recensement général de la Population et de l’Habitat, de l’Agriculture et de l’Elevage – (2013). Available at: http://www.ansd.sn/ressources/publications/2-%20Etat%20et%20structure%20de%20la%20population.pdf [Accessed 30th August 2016].

ANSD (2015). Situation économique et sociale régionale 2013. Available at: http://www.ansd.sn/ressources/ses/chapitres/1-population-dakar2013.pdf [Accessed 30th August 2016].

Birtwistle G. and Moore C. M. (2007). Fashion clothing — where does it all end up? Int. J. Retail Dist. Manage., vol. 35, 210–216.

Brooks A. (2013). Stretching global production networks: the international second-hand clothing trade. Geoforum, vol. 44, 10-22.

Burke M., Conn W. D. and Lutz R. J. (1978). Using psychographic variables to investigate product disposition behaviors. In S. C. Jain (Ed.), Research frontiers in marketing: Dialogues and directions (pp. 321–326). Chicago, IL: American Marketing Association.

Caniato F., Caridi M., Crippa L. and Moretto, A. (2012). Environmental sustainability in fashion supply chains: An exploratory case based research. Int. J. Prod. Econ., vol. 135, 659-670.

Cruz-Cárdenas J. (2013). Gender differences in motivation and product disposal methods in a high masculinity collectivist environment. Revista Brasileira de Marketing, vol. 12, 158–179.

Cruz-Cárdenas J., González R. and del Val Nunez, M.T. (2016). Clothing disposal in a collectivist environment: A mixed methods approach. J. Bus. Res., vol. 69, 1765-1768.

DEFRA (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) (2016). Digest of waste and resource statistics – 2016 edition (revised). Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/508787/Digest_of_Waste_and_Resource_Statistics_rev.pdf [Accessed 12th September 2016].

Fink A. (2003). How to manage, analyse and interpret survey data, 2nd Edition, Sage Publications, Inc., London, UK (pp. 23–71).

HCC (Hampshire County Council) (2015). Key facts about Hampshire and Hampshire County Council. Available at: http://www3.hants.gov.uk/factsandfigures/keyfactsandfigures/factsabouthampshire.htm [Accessed 30th August 2016]. M,

Letcher T.M. and Vallero D.A. (2011). Waste: A handbook for Management, 1st Ed. Elsevier. Amsterdam (pp. 167–179).

Markus H.R. and Kitayama S. (1991). Culture and the self: implications for cognition, emotion, and motivation. Psychol. Rev., vol. 98, 224-253.

Martin M., Williams I.D. and Clark M. (2006). Social, cultural and structural influences on household waste recycling: a case study. Resourc. Cons. Recycl., vol. 48, 357-395.

Mukhtar E.M., Williams I.D., Shaw P.J. and Ongondo F.O. (2016). A tale of two cities: the emergence of urban waste systems in a developed and a developing city. Recycl., Vol. 2016 254-270.

ONS (Office for National Statistics) (2011). Annual pay gross (£) – for all employee jobs, United Kingdom, 2011. Available at:.www.ons.gov.uk%2Fons%2Fabout-ons%2Fbusiness-transparency%2Ffreedom-of-information%2Fwhat-can-i-request%2Fpublished-ad-hoc-data%2Flabour%2Fmarch-2015%2Fannual-survey-of-hours-and-earnings--ashe-.xls&usg=AFQjCNFS6zfQIIJLZY6_2C4F14Zi034Vhg [Accessed 30th August 2016].

ONS (2015). Population estimates for UK, England and Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland: mid-2015. Available at: https://www.ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/populationandmigration/populationestimates/bulletins/annualmidyearpopulationestimates/mid2015 [Accessed 30th August 2016].

Pookulangara S. and Shepard A. (2013). Slow fashion movement: understanding consumer perceptions — an exploratory study. J. Retail. Cons. Serv., vol. 20, 200-206.

Pope C., Ziebald S., Mays N. (2006). Analysing qualitative data. In: Qualitative research in health care, 3rd Ed., Pope C. and Mays N. (Eds.), Blackwell, Oxford, UK.

Resta B. and Dotti S. (2015). Environmental impact assessment methods for textiles and clothing. Handbook of life cycle assessment (LCA) of textiles and clothing, pp. 149-191.

Students and Staff of the Centre for Environmental Science (2017). Editorial: Millennials to the rescue? Waste Manage., vol 62, 1-2.

Timlett R. and Williams I.D. (2011). The ISB model (infrastructure, service, behaviour): a tool for waste practitioners. Waste Manage., vol. 31, 1381-1392.

Ville de Dakar (2015). Dakar Set Wecc. Available at: http://www.villededakar.org/dossiers/dakar-set-wecc [Accessed 30th August 2016].

Williams I. D. (2015). Editorial: Forty years of the waste hierarchy. Waste Manage., vol. 40, 1-2.

Williams I.D. and Shaw P.J. (2017). Editorial: Reuse: fashion or future? Waste Manage., vol 59, 1-3.

Woolridge A.C., Ward G.D., Phillips P.S., Collins M. and Gandy S. (2006). Life cycle assessment for reuse/recycling of donated waste textiles compared to use of virgin material: An UK energy saving perspective. Resourc. Cons. Recycl., vol. 46, 94-103.

WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme) (2013). UK textile product flow and market development opportunities. Oakdene Hollins, London. Available at: http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/uk-textile-product-flow-and-market-development-opportunities [Accessed 30th August 2016].

Zhang B. and Kim J.H. (2013). Luxury fashion consumption in China: factors affecting attitude and purchase intent. J. Retail. Cons. Serv., vol. 20, 68-79.